Paldor lies at the southeast end of Ganesh Himal marking
the junction of the Tiru and Karpu Dandas at the head of the Mailung
Khola, a tributary of the Trisuli Gandaki River. The name Ganesh is
taken from the
elephant-headed
Hindu god of good luck, probably the most popular deity in the Kathamndu
valley. On a clear day the Ganesh Himal, with the icy fangs of Pabil
(7,101m/23,300ft), Logsang Karpo (7,150m/23,458ft), Ganesh I (7,406m/24,298ft)
and Ganesh V (6,950m/22,802ft) can be seen forming an imposing backdorp
to the northwest of Kathamndu. The quickest approach to Paldor and Ganesh
Himal is from Sabru near Dunche in the Trisuli valley, which can be
reached in a 6 to 7 hours drive from Kathmandu. From here the trail
crosses the Langtang Khola to Sabrubesi. After crossing the Bhote Kosi
river the route leads via Tamang villages of Tangjet and Gatlang, then
heads northwards along the ridge before dropping into the forest above
Mailung Khola to pick up the newly built road that leads to an army
post. The moraine filled valley below Paldor is reached from here in
another days walk. A more interesting approach is the trek from Sundarijal
(on the outskirts of Kathmandu valley) through the hills of Helambu
and over the Gosainkunda range to Sabru. The return from the mountain
can be made by trekking directly to Trisuli Bazaar.
South - East Ridge
John Cleare and Ian Howell first climbed this in 1974. Between Tilman's
ascent in 1949 and Cleare's expedition of 1974 it is possible that Paldor
had no other ascents. Since then the mountain has received more attention
and many new routes added.
This route climbs the long snow and ice arête that descends to
the fine rock peak of Fang. The lowest point of this ridge is best reached,
from a high camp on the Paldor Glacier East, by a steep snow and ice
slope (55 degrees). The ridge has also been reached via a potential
avalanche couloir from the Paldor Glacier West. The ridge is above is
followed, in places quite steeply, but without major difficulty to the
summit. A combination of both these routes has been made as a traverse
and is highly recommended.
North - East Ridge
From base camp, follow a path below the conspicuous moraine on its east
side as far as Paldor Tarn. Here there is a small and inconspicuous
lake to the south of the peak called Fang. Cross the stream issuing
from the lake and aim for the east ridge of Fang. This boulders slope
is the Paldor Glacier east at an altitude of 5,200 meters, in a magnificent
amphitheatre of alpine - scale peaks. The glacier at this point is flat
and uncomplicated by crevasses.
From high camp follow the Paldor Glacier, East, without
difficulty, north towards a col on the North - East Ridge. Cross the
bergscrund and climb a steep snow slope to gain the col. This may be
very difficulty, in which case ascend the slope to the left, climbing
diagonally towards a rocky pinnacle. Once on the ridge, climb over several
pinnacles of loose rock leading to a horizontal snow arête that
narrows dramatically. Follow this foot of the final 150 meters (492
feet) headwall. Ascend this on steep snow to the junction of the South-
East Ridge, which may be corniced. Continue easily to the summit. This
is Alpine AD climbing and takes five to seven hours from high camp.