Langtang region is a popular destination for climbing
snow peaks and spectacular panoramic views of mountains in Nepal and
Tibet. Easy access to the region and av ailability
of several snow peaks scattered around for acclimatization make this
region an ideal destination for novice as well as experienced climbers.
Naya Kanga is an attractive peak rising to the west of the Ganja La
pass (5,122m).
Ascending to Ganja La and the summit of Naya Kanga offer the spectacular
panoramic views of mountains in Nepal and Tibet including Langshisa
Ri (6,310m), Pemthang Ri (6,836m), Shisapangma (8,046m), Langtang Lirung
(7,246m), Pemthang Kapro Ri (6,830m) and Langtang II (6,581m). The normal
route of ascent to Naya Kanga is via the north - East Ridge over a line
on ice and snow. We follow the route of Langtang trek to Kyangjin (3,900m)
for the ascent of Naya Kanga. To the north above Kangjin, there are
several hills that provide both the magnificent views and acclimatization.
Northeast of Kyangjin Ri (4,773m), there is a peak called Tserko Ri
Peak (5001m) that provides good climbing for acclimatization.
Northeast Face & North Ridge
Crossing the Langtang Khola below Kyangjin, we climb steeply along the
ridge through a forest of rhododendron and juniper. Finally climbing
more gently, we arrive at yak pastures of Ngegang at about 4150m. We
continue following the trail to Ganja La climbing steeply through moraine.
We leave Ganja La trail to climb steeply up yet more moraine to reach
the eastern end of the glacier shelf beneath the northeast face of Naya
Kanga. We set up the high camp here for the ascent. We cross the glacier
shelf to the foot heading to the north ridge. We climb the couloir to
the notch and the base of the ridge. Then we turn to the ice nose on
the left, which is only the technical section on the climb. Now the
ridge widens and leads to a small col. on the east-west summit ridge
and the summit is only 30m higher to the right. The climb near the summit
should be done carefully. Normally, the ascent takes 5-7 hours from
the high camp. For the return trek, we may follow Ganja La-Helambu route
or back the way we came in to Dhunche. Here we have given Ganjala-helambu
region for an itinerary.
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