Kanchenjunga is the
third-tallest mountain in the world after Mt. Everest and Mt. K2. Kanchenjunga
is situated in eastern part of Nepal at 8598m. It was first climbed by
a British team in 1956. It is an enormous
mountain mass, and many satellite peaks rise from its narrow icy ridges.
It is located on the border of Nepal and Sikkim, just 46 miles northwest
of Darjeeling. It is the most easterly of the great 8,000 meter peaks
of the Himalaya. The peak consists of four summits.
The west summit, Yalung Kang, is 8420m high and some people classify it
as a separate 8000m peak. Three first Westerner to explore Kanchenjunga
was the British botanist JD Hooker, who visited the area twice in 1848
and 1849. Exploration of the Skim, side of the peak continued with both
British and pundit explorers mapping and photographing until 1899. In
that year a party led by Douglas fresh field made a circuit of Kanchenjunga
and produced what is still one of the most authoritative maps of the region.
The Japanese now took up the challenge and mounted expeditions in 1973,
1974 and 1976 during which they climbed Yalung Kang. A German Expedition
climbed Yalung Kang in 1975, and in 1977 an Indian army team mounted the
second successful expedition to the main peak of Kanchenjunga.
The route (North Face) is definitely the safest, although
not the easiest. Climb of Kanchenjunga begin from a charming base camp
in the meadows of Panorama at 5,180 m. First challenge is to fix lines
up 900 m of intricate mixed climbing to the North col. This provides the
most challenging climbing of the expedition. Once creating a lifeline
to and from the North Col you can begin the long process of establishing
three camps up the long and complicated North ridge. Using Sherpa support
and oxygen, you can move at a systematically slow velocity higher and
higher up the mountain. This is a highly satisfying climb for the expert
Climbers.
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